Travel Recovery in the Sunny Haze of Huanchaco’s Beach Town


After the chilly temperatures and breathless heights of Huaraz, I was eager to get to sunnier climes. Following my trajectory north I decided to make camp in Huanchaco, a surfer’s paradise and notoriously lazy beach town, for an undetermined amount of time. For the next week I took my cues from the nearby lizards: find a warm patch of sun and don’t move.

It was a restorative week, and by the end I felt energized enough to explore a bit. I visited the neighboring site of Chan Chan, a Unesco World Heritage Site that contains the archeological remains of the Moche civilization, and watched a fiery sunset bathe the city of Huanchaco in a blanket of warmth.

T8FhrkioaqP6La5_kpTQoGfnMWzUWII_Oavv5H0UrZ8 yhX08PHoj9YWluDvGLsvuyloEEVnqo8knJQkxvbfuPU Jbrr_nVGYY8bdhchY22wnN8Vw0xJknrFknJkItfCNE8 1ntITEdRw6LEtlFASNo7h_3cSVS_Ut6Rx5jieIvnj4s 6LPw51IpEfNuI3NIM6PeemZ5bR_7Mj3Uib3NxvwJctE 68buuglLuWur9yzVxDR_8iiNXQbam1awWNt7zNu2KQ4 gMZlcGPnmvEwuls2aE3En0Iln-xSqejMxuPY1LfCLJ4 MFwvYHCE99RuaPe91R8WQZAK_WgevpvEU8df8DCCQMA RP-MXQhkcX5LGxHhTVcXALDtvgDbZMWGi_ImCW_A5s0

Up and Away in the Heights of Huaraz


After the high altitudes of Cusco and the Inca Trail, I told myself that I was done with heights for a while. But a few weeks later I found myself back in the mountains, this time in the Northern city of Huaraz. For two days I hiked, rock climbed, enjoyed the Aguas Calientes, and took in the beautiful, stark scenery.

8W5LX1qaUDH5yyvsb5eGgx9pX3aYyqEAaXU3G2gnEYc 9Y700DYWVC50nOeobD9xeaVJabffkMpLlxSuJkMuDLc,T3h0SAjv8LkrsIkwMgYy4eINSel2SBSAahya8a1D_k0 ArjGYQiQIwDk3AnuIMFcEJ7YDKKe-b67hsQuJMdwzaE bKaKyKP8L_u3lpoZ0O6USJE64evzvjU3GU1ZW-of5T0 D-NSY5R6CMdyA77DUJ1IXVtJ6MFFZNTt5VWXrFRMVeo gtFa2gFHBh6Sj8SDxA10Ix_imZ8KPpRE94J6Ubt3_6s R9Bd95LUuQ0h3Sx5CC9Vu_TCcrgxE2xKGc_bXrVjxVQ TpTLy8adYcitdFe1iQ9yXNV0xOrNmbwD41rZMDCWhpk

Lake Titicaca’s Best Kept Secret..Until Now

e_CTBa9-y--1gVA2pxkfvVe26A_aZiuM2XYUjJ84bKISometimes it’s ok to be selfish. Like when you discover that hole-in-the-wall restaurant that changed your world, and you don’t tell everyone you know about it. Because, you know, then it wouldn’t be special for you. But then there are places that are so special that it seems a crime not to share them, even if that does eventually lead to an unwelcome change of foot traffic.

Such was my dilemma with the Quantati island on Lake Titicaca.

The floating reed islands on Lake Titicaca are world renowned, definitely no secret to the throngs of tourists who pay to visit the islands for a few hours, experiencing a watered down version of the traditional way of life. However, there is one island only that allows guests to sleep on these floating reeds, serving as a tiny hotel on the water. Quantati island is run by a small family that has lived their whole lives on the lake. Upon arriving at the bus station in Puno, my two companions and I were met by a smiling face (albeit little English) and were promptly taken to a tiny motorboat at the water’s edge. We chugged along, the small, dark shapes getting closer and closer until it became clear that these masses were large floating mounds of reeds. They started off small, some completely abandoned while others had a small herd of cows grazing. Slowing, the islands grew larger and signs of habitation emerged.

We approached our designated island, and jumped off onto the springy ground. As I looked around I noticed that the island contained a mini replica of a village, all forged out of reeds. There were comfortable sized huts, lounge cushions, a lookout tower, even boats, all thatched from the same substance as the ground I was standing on. Over the next three days I spent my time lazing about in the warm sun (reeds are surprisingly comfortable!), going on fishing trips with our hosts, eating some of the best meals of my life, and daring to cannonball into the ice-cold waters of Lake Titicaca.

It was a magical time, where time seemed to stand still, and life was comprised of simple pleasures.

1_ApEHhJ3hBY5WaWTEN9a6CdJoPQay6uPU3Enx8LpZE 1rcs8h8EB5uDqoy5r84wfG06oUXr1pMfX37azRvjj30 2GFbWj7n95V-xyUPQZBjm0PsI2QL5XrNIBflG8IGOr8 2ovXv2aNw4wUDt2s0I1BXUgy3iyiuNAwmwwRKCue-Ro 3JWjg3PgTe9CLmNfRAWTdci6DPu0KPJQ0YJhTK5H1CE anoc6CVXM1u_1G4DtMGFHx6N5Ab6tIupLLa5ViH3va4,TzIts-g3Ap1tcs3x1j-EJ7mrvnO8_i5cVb6Cv_cXP3s AopRzjm3mHwwDmzbsnl-2mc_Hbb_EP-3kL6e8VPtzMQ ev3cwZthiNZW12iSXNwYvUBg-RbHC5ehJAlBfAVj2nQ eYJ1Ggv1pgpPZFoDZ5OgLSM1Y6midUhX8DmQn_d4ZX8 FhzjuIUvnOtvSjUIpRWGddmMragJbC69ur0q7IOm0kc KFvWgP_Dov-e-cVnsUpav1MnR4yUB5Q-V8SZFpLIeNw LgSoHi7ZxMzXVfaZ4p3pJmXH_KQ2VSL18W0Xq3p0cQI ninT-kjj8G0sGk3flyApiPSg1UGQPqLTZDGIQUcKpVc PI6603Go5h-K6R20_6oSRVePLaKiyI058ihUjlWR_Oo QNl9srWJPE-7YkljEj37sm9sY3Me1zjuH1u-bJt5H1g QpaPUzZHUajZkvcT-dVrbI-V9oa9zS32BmOpdrO5Zgs QZ4LUahAPsTZfOcbR-OJvTf2pmf1cbG2uastLZi7rdk,4mF9QMlPueQNnRIy0PJCCPYIr6cuw0QLCQTBS79WbTg rC4PlKXr41o2hGTwotL7sjNfM6sPHJzENwOSHPkDshQ rLZ8lHvp1XT0YQZZvDv-0XcD_ziOPYhT9amUKkRj0vI TFie-ob8gh-dYmeXIjNX5l6BAHphGk48B-BuaoiH9SY tgGN8Jzi4FCJVk8NYy-CCGoyvGZyIwZNdfn3ga_WuO8 tYoSbNXZllsOJRm4272btCvWiPjTFCgh38Ban9meEoI V9eT7_V7uYysXyhZ2ZygdpKUHkMCJCF3g-hyycJZTZo VnGIXpgHEerMxTgqTajp_bd6ShFaU_XA3F36os3mK5g wmcqbvCzl5BOO7Q87nwX9NJ880x_-kzhOiILvo-BWIk

Simple Pleasures in the Fishing Town of Chala, Peru

xuD2AXSwJdKvoDLMSL7kFDK763o_zKA6FLIKfzjDa6sOne of my favorite things to happen during a trip is an unexpected stopover. While I used to plan out my trips so aggressively that I had a detailed itinerary for every minute away, I now have a loose idea of where I want to go, and try to just be in the moment. If I like a city more than I expected, I have the time to extend my stay there. If someplace is not living up to its hype, than I have no issues leaving sooner. However, there are those wonderful moments when you discover a place you did not even know existed, and your trip changes its entire course.

That was the story of how I came to visit Chala. During my 2012 trip to Peru, I was at the southern tip of the country, having completed the Inca Trail, and was ready to head back up to Lima. However, after my previous experience with a 20 hour bus ride I knew that I needed to break up the trip. After consulting several bus schedules, and numerous maps I found a tiny village that would give me a 12 hour respite from the stomach churning bus journey. It was Chala.

This tiny fishing village was so small, it is no wonder it escapes the well worn gringo path. The buildings are mostly dilapidated, there are no historic sites to explore, and speaking English is a huge challenge. Yet the quiet of this small town drew me in, and I found myself wandering the beach and admiring the strange patterns drawn by the seaweed washed ashore. The cluster of colorful fishing boats were a beautiful site, looking more decorative than you would imagine from the chief industry of a city. Finally, as I prepared to leave for the bus station on the second leg of my journey North, I watched a sunset so fiery and pure, that it looked as if it had been painted onto the sky.

Indeed, this trip out of necessity had turned into an indelible memory of simple joys.

PellFreQ1i3_MpkYw8AwXc91qJacS7ffFC9SdDhck_o -YPRevylIhGB7CfwbZjpwUOkf4mnJD6O9eC4UA129JU NyXiY9rQZrZTMWg31A_adyeG0hd52iJHDQlyxRX1tQw ywvEpeJjxt0ORMfKlTX0VcFxAKPGbemhzQljp6ws01Y 6WA86PJ7k5aQxRFekKt9Wb-LW8MKXEmw662RP0Z1iR0 2ALYz0lMD2IdzjxyFV2eh3rcMk3sqBgHvVVNoe5bTVw 4gJKYnWbw4MhDxFwVVAuJo8cbI9ZC80LJBwdmyH5kbc 40UPAwcUmqCQMpXqLLcsSXuYPiDXNXIrKuiDdY9onqc F7ZSySdvplQEelLOBqeTCmXPS0Ite2TH8zZK6jYDdnc JH_BRHQY5GOkGYSo6DtNiBdh2C13OLsY9eJtbX4662c jiG57rJBkuNqyzfa-5sPvYszWapONKZWdcJDLUO0d6U TIph8f1QDdEZWUYQ_pRASEighlCDrr_QtKX_6N1BJ30 JFAtoSzvNcGyHR4negp-rNCppavE9Bfm2x_veDrGTVc

Nature’s Menagerie at Peru’s Ballestas Islands

TxScfJCN1MmhRusTgY3m6fqihQsJt7Hz0WNLYZB8iewThe Ballestas Islands, just off of the coast of Paracas is a magical place. Available by boat, these islands are inhabited by a plethora of birds, sea lions, and even penguins! Known as the “Poor Man’s Galapagos” they are a much more affordable option to see all sorts of animals in their natural habitat. A typical boat ride to these islands lasts about two hours to and from Paracas, and gives you plenty of photo opportunities.

0B22Es70DBMMUxzyGbiagjok7dfyYbYc_KcgTI2xAKM    2uMfPnJHAtevCeoeAC8J7HAub9d2roar00w0XCCIfHc 8Al2pU2RDh0i67_Cyl4A6m487JMZ2gGXD439lcUOyNA W-KQedHQv-QxFeK4n4qJ6-4umm299q94QxhGctZrSSk CmC3frVaFSRpJCEKi9zDb_8POIDSbQ-h3RvmQ3JzvtU qBQYMSDZcnHoKD4vW3IeSJfrlOSX9Y4eTj1Xp3EpyxQ kUMNLry5JcXRQtPId6hV-lBbbmleU8gqE2gMe1nhpNo rD_f8HpbcPJBW94vvebo61igEkjgq49N2jHWtPQSFok gixZFX4HTlGgRuGcMgkPgtuwX0o2v-WfQ34T29jnbdk 1R5MYhVuq19vKLt43e_cQMufm8ftjuNDf_R_xnauFPE 9KfYl1a1A-dBBLwDIrXSnzeLoy6i3OI3OZz2TPIt20c aM9m7nZT1rK28rEQAMOhKmK7VlgHPccl7NF9Ewc0_yg e1seP-QmpW_maDv9e7LpL12QC5DDSw02VTbCmyb5dBk J3DFDsVRMDhDwsZrBDFPug2KYVGpiC9FYKE2gMBcDRs k6G9FoNaI_n201Lk1I8TJ64TA_xywcMI7-WC0YkyZ9Y qBQYMSDZcnHoKD4vW3IeSJfrlOSX9Y4eTj1Xp3EpyxQ QLDSLIaLwWzWFLB9SGwb83MSADfRpHPtJK1Ha43NYfw QYvNQj9ZFglTuVq0m-R22PU2y9wqfNAH762Yx2oUYnE rgfz5oE6gQCmO7yO7fwq7_f2xsIW1CpQUM9Uogg3xo4 Z-3zfKUKgrr9AfFM8FjXL_LLj1NenVfA-RAceCVoEsk Z-u4jGPaoWQHr3WLhOw4Zn-z1KGAXNmlm9roJBN3VLY

%d bloggers like this: